Introduction
Some thoughts on how shields work in the real world and haw to model that in a way that works for HackMaster 5e. I wont claim to be able to cover every thing but I do hope to give the reader something to think about and add verisimilitude of not realism to their games
Basic types of shield
Shields have been made in all shapes and sizes and of a large number of differing materials historically but the base line shield in HackMaster and indeed most similar FRPG's is wooden, often a composite resembling modern plywood, and edged with raw hide to protect the edge from blades. On better shields they may be faced with cloth or thin leather and some times even thin sheet metal and the rawhide replaced by a metal edging strip. However regardless of construction or size there are only two ways of holding a shield.
Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages and the prevalence of either varied considerably over history but form experience the centre grip is better for mobility of the shield thought it it the heaviest as all the shields not inconsiderable weight is supported by the off hand. its also easier to equip and de equip, but its also possible to drop the shield . The fore arm grip is less mobile but you can use heavier shields, indeed the only practical all metal shields I have seen other than truly tiny bucklers have been this type. It is also impossible to drop as even if you let go of the hand grip it hangs of the fore arm.
You find that using a centre grip shield you will actively use it to intercept or deflect an incoming blow or as a weapon to strike aside you foes weapon, with a forearm grip you find you tend to present it to your foe and keep it fairly static whilst you move around behind it. From the front centre grip shields have a raised metal boss which covers the hole in the middle where the grip is and fore arm grip shields tend to be smooth.
How to hold a shield
Shields of either type are held with a bent off arm as far in front of the torso as possible. For a fore arm grip shield this is a bit more than the length of your upper arm and for a centre grip shield this is about three quarters of the length of the whole arm in action shields are never held against the body as the space between the shield and you is your defence against nasty stuff like axes which can punch holes in shields easily. flexing the arm is also a way of absorbing the energy of the weapons impact spreading it ad so reducing damage, the arm acts in some ways like a spring.
Considerations of shape
The basic shield is flat but more elaborate versions are curved or dished either of which make it harder to land a solid blow and more likely that any hit will be glancing this reduces damage to the shield and increases the time it will survive in a battle particularly important when you are not wearing any armour or only a helmet.
Considerations of Materials and Construction
Shields can be made out of a wide range of materials and have been and even the basic wooden one can be varied to improve its performance and survivability .
Fabric facing gluing stretched cloth across the front of a wooden shield will make the surface of the wood less likely to splinter or to have layers seared away by impacts it also provides a nice base for painting identification or heraldry on and it does not noticeably add to the shields weight.
Leather or rawhide facing very much the same as the point made for cloth facing but it will add rather more weight to the shield makes the shield much tougher such that the thickness of the wood can be reduced sand the shield still be more robust than a thicker shield without it. it can also provide a flat surface to decorate on in the case of the particoloured animal hides with the fur left on provide a decoration in itself.
Metal facing this again
 |
| Centre grip |
 |
| Forearm Grip |
Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages and the prevalence of either varied considerably over history but form experience the centre grip is better for mobility of the shield thought it it the heaviest as all the shields not inconsiderable weight is supported by the off hand. its also easier to equip and de equip, but its also possible to drop the shield . The fore arm grip is less mobile but you can use heavier shields, indeed the only practical all metal shields I have seen other than truly tiny bucklers have been this type. It is also impossible to drop as even if you let go of the hand grip it hangs of the fore arm.
You find that using a centre grip shield you will actively use it to intercept or deflect an incoming blow or as a weapon to strike aside you foes weapon, with a forearm grip you find you tend to present it to your foe and keep it fairly static whilst you move around behind it. From the front centre grip shields have a raised metal boss which covers the hole in the middle where the grip is and fore arm grip shields tend to be smooth.
How to hold a shield
Shields of either type are held with a bent off arm as far in front of the torso as possible. For a fore arm grip shield this is a bit more than the length of your upper arm and for a centre grip shield this is about three quarters of the length of the whole arm in action shields are never held against the body as the space between the shield and you is your defence against nasty stuff like axes which can punch holes in shields easily. flexing the arm is also a way of absorbing the energy of the weapons impact spreading it ad so reducing damage, the arm acts in some ways like a spring.
Considerations of shape
The basic shield is flat but more elaborate versions are curved or dished either of which make it harder to land a solid blow and more likely that any hit will be glancing this reduces damage to the shield and increases the time it will survive in a battle particularly important when you are not wearing any armour or only a helmet.
Considerations of Materials and Construction
Shields can be made out of a wide range of materials and have been and even the basic wooden one can be varied to improve its performance and survivability .
Fabric facing gluing stretched cloth across the front of a wooden shield will make the surface of the wood less likely to splinter or to have layers seared away by impacts it also provides a nice base for painting identification or heraldry on and it does not noticeably add to the shields weight.
Leather or rawhide facing very much the same as the point made for cloth facing but it will add rather more weight to the shield makes the shield much tougher such that the thickness of the wood can be reduced sand the shield still be more robust than a thicker shield without it. it can also provide a flat surface to decorate on in the case of the particoloured animal hides with the fur left on provide a decoration in itself.
Metal facing this again
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